 | Paper pattern for the bottom plate, and the temporary adhesive spray
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 | The patterns for all of the plates and rings laid upside-down for spraying on the adhesive. These were the only patterns I sprayed indoors; after this I did all the adhesive spraying outside.
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 | The 4x8 sheet of 3mm styrene
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 | The ring & plate patterns glued to the styrene
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 | A ring rough-cut from the sheet with the razor knife
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 | All the plates and rings rough cut and ready for the router table
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 | My first attempt at placing the pivot hole was to measure from the cutting bit using a ruler, and mark the position with a pencil.
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 | This turned out to be way too imprecise
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 | I made a pivot-hole placement guide using SketchUp. The 1/4" hole on the end slips over the router bit, and the holes for all the various radii are precisely placed. I printed it and glued it to a piece of 2mm styrene and drilled out the holes.
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 | The placement guide slipped over the router bit
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 | I put the 1/8" drill bit thru the appropriate hole and drill just enough to dimple the table top. I don't want to drill too much yet because I can't hold the drill plumb to the table.
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 | I finish drilling out the hole using my high-tech drilling guide to ensure a plumb hole (it's just a scrap of 1x2 with a 1/8" hole drilled on the drill press; by running the drill bit thru this, I know I'll end up with a plumb hole in the table)
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 | The bottom plate after cutting the curve on the router table
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 | The shoulder support plates
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 | Shoulder support plates and dome motor support plate
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 | The non-round frame parts
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 | All frame parts cut out
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 | First glued-up parts: The skin inset chord glued to the ankle inset plate
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 | Starting to glue up the frame
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 | While the glue dries, I'm cutting the hinge slots in the arm door uprights
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 | I messed up and cut hinge slots in all 4 uprights. Turns out you only need to cut the slots in 2 of them.
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 | Servo cutouts in the ring #2. These servos will open & close the arm doors.
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 | This shows the notch cutout to accomodate the coin slot strip
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 | The top plate. I modified the design accomodate a slip ring.
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 | The first frame layer completed
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 | Close-up of the servo cutout, right between the two uprights. You can also see the lower hinge hole which is tapped for M3.
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 | The arm door uprights in place.
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 | The mounting holes for the dome drive motor. These are countersunk.
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 | The flat-head M3 screw sits flush in the countersink.
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 | Top ring added.
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 | This is the upper hinge mount made from scrap styrene. There are 2 pieces laminated together to give 6mm of thickness.
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 | The upper hinge mount will attach right here, flush with the bottom of hinge slot.
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 | Shoulder plates added. The notch in the plate (to accommodate the upper hinge mount) was not indicated in the plans, so I held the hinge mount in place and marked the notch location.
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 | Upper hinge mounts drilled, tapped and attached to frame. These sit right on the notch in the shoulder plate.
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 | Completed frame. The 2nd base plate has also been attached.
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 | This shot shows the inside of the shoulder plate. You can see the support plate attached to the inner side of the shoulder plate (with an M3 screw for alignment while gluing), and also the shoulder bulkheads glued in on either side of the support plate. The bulkheads were not in the plans so I made them out of scrap styrene, the same height as the shoulder plate.
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 | A close-up of one of the upper hinge mounts.
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